Installation Instructions

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• AR-15 (and similar) and Mag Wall Mounts

  1. Determine where you would like to install the mount and mark the four mounting hole locations with a pen or pencil (one mounting hole for Mag holders).

  2. If using the included drywall anchors on any of the four mounting points, use a #2 Phillips head screwdriver to turn the anchor into the drywall by applying light pressure on the tip until the threads engage. Continue turning until anchor is flush with the wall. Do not overtighten. Note: The drywall anchors and wood screws are self-tapping, so you do not need to pre-drill holes. However, pre-drilling for the wood screws will make installing with a screwdriver easier.

  3. Install the mount using the appropriate screws and screwdrivers. The #8 wood screws can accept either a #2 Phillips bit or a #2 Square bit. A long screwdriver or bit extension is required to reach through the mount. Tighten screws until snug, but do not overtighten as you may risk damaging the mount. If utilizing the wood screws for any portion of the mount, ensure there is sufficient backing material (2x4 stud, etc.).

  4. We do not recommend using a power drill or driver as this could damage the drywall anchors and/or potentially over-torque the wood screw on the mount, leading to possible failure.​​

• M-Lok Grips

  1. All grips include mounting screws and t-nuts for M-Lok rail system.

  2. We recommend using medium-strength thread locker on the screws to ensure a secure attachment.

  3. If not already done, insert the mounting screws through the proper holes on the grip and thread the t-nuts on to the ends. Do not tighten at this time.

  4. Make sure the t-nuts are aligned with the rail slot(s) and locate the grip as desired.

  5. Ensure the grip or accessory is seated fully inside the rail slot before tightening the hardware. The face of the attachment should be flush with the flat section of the rail. Our grips have a tight fit in the M-Lok rail slots, which may take some maneuvering to seat them just right. Do not force the grip into place. It may be necessary to align the front-most tab into the rail slot, slide it forward all the way and then insert the rear-most tabs.

  6. To tighten, the t-nuts must rotate 90-degrees clockwise, so they are properly seated in the rail slot. If they are not rotating properly, you may need to loosen the screw(s) slightly to allow the t-nut(s) enough space to rotate in the slot, or you may need to tighten the screw(s) to bring the t-nut(s) closer to the rail slot. It may also help to use a second Allen key or similar tool to assist the t-nut in rotating.

  7. Once the t-nuts are rotated a full 90-degrees inside the slot, begin tightening the screws to 15in-lbs. Do not overtighten.

• Motorcycle Parts

  1. Mounting hardware is often provided for our custom motorcycle parts. Do not overtighten as you may risk damaging the part.

  2. We recommend the use of medium-strength thread locker on hardware for parts that may be subject to shock and/or vibration.

  3. Take extra caution with parts that have threaded holes (2- and 3-button switches, Koso speed gauge mount, etc.). These parts are made of ASA, which is a strong plastic, but the tapped holes can easily be damaged or cross-threaded if you are not careful. Screws, set-screws, switches, etc. should thread in easily. Never force them.

• Universal Motorcycle Control Switches

  1. Begin by removing the push buttons from the switch bodies.

  2. Locate the switch body on your handlebar in the desired position, making sure it has a comfortable reach for your fingers.

  3. Mark the location of the holes (2 or 3 depending on the switch) with a marker.

  4. For the 2-button switch, you’ll mark a new location at the mid-point between the two initial marks. This will be where you drill the hole. Both sets of wires will feed through this single hole. For the 3-button switch, do the same thing, but you’ll drill an additional hole for the extra push-button location. (To summarize, you’ll have one drilled hole for a 2-button switch, and 2 drilled holes for a 3-button switch).

  5. Drill your hole(s) perpendicular to the bar with a ¼”-3/8” drill bit, depending on your wire size. It may also benefit you to countersink and deburr the hole to prevent the wires from snagging.

  6. Next, you’ll need to solder your cables onto the momentary switch terminals BEFORE they are installed in the switch bodies. This is very important, as the switch bodies are plastic so they can easily be melted or damaged by a soldering iron.

  7. Using a low-heat soldering iron, make your connections using the least amount of solder possible. The more solder your joint has, the more difficult it may be to thread the switch into the body. TIP: thread the wire through the terminal and fold it back over. This creates a stronger mechanical joint, rather than relying on the solder alone.

  8. Once your solder connections are made, use small pieces of heat shrink tubing over each joint to protect the solder joints.

  9. Insert the wires through the switch body and begin twisting the push-buttons into the switch bodies, being very careful not to cross-thread the plastic body. Snug the push-button(s) by hand.

  10. Insert the wire ends through the respective holes in your handlebar and gently feed them out through the handlebar tube.

  11. Now the switch bodies are ready to clamp to your handlebar. Make sure the wires are pulled through enough and are not being pinched between the switch body and the handlebar. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

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Thank you and we appreciate your support!

 

Weekend Warrior Customs LLC

info@weekendwarriorcustoms.com

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